Matted fur is one of the most frustrating grooming challenges dog owners face. Those stubborn tangles don’t just look messy—they can cause serious discomfort and even health problems for your furry friend. If you’ve ever run your fingers through your dog’s coat only to hit a tight knot, you know exactly what we’re talking about.
The good news? You don’t always need a professional groomer to handle mats. With the right approach and tools, you can safely remove dog mats at home and restore your pup’s coat to its fluffy glory.
Before we tackle how to remove mats, let’s understand why they form in the first place.
Friction and Movement: Areas where your dog’s body experiences constant rubbing—behind the ears, under the collar, in the armpits, and around the tail—are prime spots for mats to develop. The friction causes individual hairs to tangle together.
Moisture: Water can make fur clump together, especially if your dog has a thick or double coat. After swimming or bathing, failure to properly dry and brush the coat often leads to matted dog fur.
Lack of Regular Brushing: This is the number one culprit. Dogs with long or curly coats need consistent brushing to prevent tangles from forming. Skip a few sessions, and those small tangles quickly spiral into serious mats.
Shedding Season: When your dog sheds, loose dead hair can get trapped in the living coat. If not removed through regular brushing, this creates the perfect conditions for matting.
Coat Type: Some breeds are simply more prone to matting. Poodles, Doodles, Bichon Frises, Cocker Spaniels, and any dog with long, silky, or curly hair requires extra attention.
Many pet owners don’t realize that mats are actually painful for dogs. Here’s why they’re a genuine health concern:
Having the right equipment makes all the difference when dealing with mats. Here’s what you should have in your grooming arsenal:
Slicker Brush: This rectangular brush with fine, bent wire bristles is your best friend for preventing and working through minor tangles. The angled pins can penetrate through the coat layers without scratching skin.
Metal Comb: A high-quality metal comb with both wide and narrow teeth helps you assess the severity of mats and work through them systematically. The wide teeth handle thicker sections while narrow teeth catch smaller tangles.
Dematting Tool: These specialized dog grooming tools feature sharp, curved blades designed to slice through mats without pulling. Look for one with a comfortable grip and protected blade tips.
Mat Splitter: Similar to a dematting tool but with fewer, thicker blades, a mat splitter breaks large mats into smaller, more manageable sections.
Detangling Spray: A leave-in conditioning spray lubricates the hair, making it easier to work through knots without breaking the hair or hurting your dog.
Blunt-Tip Scissors: For severe mats that can’t be brushed out, you’ll need safety scissors with rounded tips to prevent accidentally poking your dog’s skin.
Grooming Table with Arm (Optional): If you groom your dog regularly, an elevated table with a restraint arm helps keep them steady and at a comfortable working height.
Now let’s get into the actual process. Take your time with this—rushing leads to discomfort for your dog and potential injury.
Before you start working on any mats, do a full body inspection. Run your hands carefully through your dog’s entire coat, feeling for tangles and mats. Pay special attention to:
Determine the severity of each mat. Minor tangles feel loose and can be separated with your fingers. Moderate mats are tighter but you can still get a comb through them with some effort. Severe mats are tight against the skin and completely solid—these may require professional help or shaving.
Read Also: Dog Vaccination Complete Guide: Schedule, Costs & Side Effects
Choose a quiet, well-lit area where your dog feels comfortable. If possible, work at a height that won’t strain your back. Have all your tools within reach before you start.
Give your dog a bathroom break first. You don’t want to deal with mats while they’re dancing around needing to go outside. Keep some high-value treats nearby to reward good behavior and create positive associations.
Important: Never bathe a matted dog. Water tightens mats and makes them much harder to remove. Always brush out mats before bathing.
Lightly mist the matted areas with a quality detangling spray. Don’t oversaturate—you want the coat damp, not soaking. Let it sit for a minute or two to penetrate the hair shaft and loosen the tangles.
This conditioning spray serves two purposes: it reduces friction when you’re working through the mat, and it helps minimize hair breakage. Some products also have a pleasant scent that makes the grooming session more enjoyable.
This is the golden rule for pet coat care: always start at the ends of the hair and gradually work your way toward the skin. Never start brushing at the base near the skin and pull outward—this causes pain and can damage the coat.
Hold the mat at its base (close to the skin) with one hand. This prevents pulling on the skin as you work on the mat. Use your other hand to gently separate small sections from the outer edge of the mat.
For minor tangles, your fingers are often the best tool. Gently pull apart small sections of the mat, working slowly and patiently. This method gives you the most control and helps you avoid pulling on sensitive skin.
If you feel resistance, stop and apply more detangling spray. Don’t force it—if you can’t separate the hair easily with your fingers, you’ll need tools.
Once you’ve loosened the outer portions of the mat with your fingers, bring in the slicker brush. Use short, gentle strokes on just the tips of the matted hair.
Brush in the direction of hair growth, never against it. As the outer layer begins to separate, gradually work deeper into the mat. Remember to hold the base of the mat to protect the skin from pulling.
If your dog shows signs of discomfort—pulling away, whining, or getting restless—take a break. Offer treats and praise, then resume when they’ve relaxed.
After the slicker brush has loosened the mat significantly, use a metal comb to work through the remaining tangles. Start with the wide-toothed side for thicker sections, then finish with the narrow teeth.
The comb should glide through the hair once the mat is fully removed. If you hit resistance, go back to the slicker brush or your fingers rather than forcing the comb through.
For mats that resist brushing, a dematting tool or mat splitter becomes necessary. These tools have sharp edges, so use them carefully.
Position the tool at the outer edge of the mat and gently saw through it using short strokes. The blades will cut through the mat vertically, essentially splitting one large mat into several smaller sections that are easier to brush out.
Always cut parallel to the skin, never perpendicular to it. Work slowly and check your progress frequently. Once the mat has been split into smaller pieces, return to your slicker brush and comb to work out the remaining tangles.
Sometimes a mat is simply too tight to safely work out. If a mat is right against the skin and completely solid, attempting to brush it out will cause your dog significant pain.
In these cases, carefully cutting out the mat is the kindest option. Use blunt-tip scissors for safety. Slide a metal comb between the mat and your dog’s skin to create a protective barrier. This ensures you’re only cutting hair, not skin.
Cut small sections at a time, working from the outside of the mat inward. You may need to make several cuts to fully remove a large mat. Don’t worry about creating a bald spot—the hair will grow back, and your dog’s comfort is the priority.
After removing all mats, give your dog’s entire coat a thorough brushing with the slicker brush. This removes any loose hair and ensures you haven’t missed any hidden tangles.
Run your metal comb through the coat—it should glide smoothly without catching. Check all those problem areas again: ears, armpits, rear end, and between the toes.
Finish by praising your dog and offering their favorite treat. You want them to associate grooming with positive experiences so future sessions are easier.
Certain areas require special techniques due to their sensitivity or awkward positioning.
Ears: The fur behind and inside the ears mats easily because dogs scratch there frequently. Hold the ear flap gently and work on the back side first. For inside the ear, be extremely careful not to pull on the delicate ear leather. If mats are deep inside the ear canal, consult a groomer or veterinarian.
Armpits: This area combines friction from leg movement with moisture from drool and drinking water. Your dog may be ticklish here, so work slowly. Lift the leg gently to access the armpit fully, and use your fingers to separate small sections before bringing in brushes.
Tail: Mats around the tail base and on the tail itself can be painful because this area has many nerve endings. Work from the tip of the tail toward the base, always holding the mat at its base to avoid pulling on the tailbone.
Paws: Hair between the toes and paw pads frequently mats with dirt, debris, and ice in winter. This affects your dog’s ability to walk comfortably. Use a comb to carefully separate the toe hair, then trim any excess fur between the pads with scissors.
Belly and Groin: These sensitive areas often mat because dogs scratch them when itchy. Your dog may resist handling here, so go slowly and offer frequent treats. For male dogs, be especially careful around the genital area.
Prevention is infinitely easier than dealing with established mats. Here’s how to keep your dog’s coat tangle-free:
Establish a Brushing Schedule: The frequency depends on your dog’s coat type. Long-haired breeds need daily brushing. Dogs with medium coats should be brushed 2-3 times per week. Even short-haired dogs benefit from weekly brushing sessions.
Brush Before and After Water Exposure: Always brush your dog before bathing to remove any existing tangles. Water will tighten them into impossible mats. After swimming or bathing, towel-dry thoroughly, then brush while the coat is still slightly damp.
Use the Right Products: Invest in a quality leave-in conditioner or detangling spray and use it regularly, not just when mats appear. These products keep the hair shaft smooth and resistant to tangling.
Trim Regularly: Even if you’re not going for a specific style, regular trimming keeps the coat at a manageable length. Pay special attention to high-friction areas like armpits and the rear end.
Proper Drying Technique: After baths, use a blow dryer on a low setting while brushing. This combination straightens the hair and prevents it from clumping together as it dries. Many professional groomers credit this technique as the secret to mat prevention.
Check After Outdoor Adventures: Burrs, twigs, and leaves love to hide in fur and create instant mats. After hikes or romps through tall grass, do a quick check and remove any debris before it tangles into the coat.
Use Protective Gear: If your dog wears a collar or harness daily, make sure it fits properly—too tight causes friction and matting. Remove these accessories occasionally to brush the fur underneath. Some owners use satin-lined collars that create less friction.
Sometimes DIY grooming isn’t the right choice. Seek professional help if:
Professional groomers have industrial-strength tools, proper restraint systems, and the experience to handle even the most severely matted dogs. They can also shave down a matted coat safely, which sometimes is the only humane option.
Cost Consideration: While professional grooming costs more upfront, it’s often worth it for severely matted dogs. Attempting to remove extreme mats at home can take hours of stressful work and potentially injure your dog. A groomer can assess the situation and develop the best plan, whether that’s dematting or shaving.
Different breeds require different approaches to untangle dog hair effectively.
Long, Silky Coats (Yorkshire Terriers, Maltese, Afghan Hounds): These coats mat easily because the fine hair tangles at the slightest provocation. Daily brushing with a pin brush and regular use of conditioning spray are essential. Many owners keep these breeds in shorter “puppy cuts” to minimize maintenance.
Curly Coats (Poodles, Bichons, Doodles): The curl pattern naturally causes hair to wrap around itself. These dogs need professional grooming every 6-8 weeks, with daily brushing at home using a slicker brush. The coat should never be allowed to air-dry after bathing—always blow-dry while brushing.
Double Coats (Golden Retrievers, Huskies, German Shepherds): The soft undercoat sheds seasonally and can get trapped by the longer guard hairs, creating mats close to the skin. Use an undercoat rake regularly, especially during shedding season. Never shave a double-coated breed—it damages the coat permanently.
Wire Coats (Terriers, Schnauzers): These coarse coats don’t mat as easily but can develop tangles if neglected. Regular stripping or clipping maintains the coat texture. Use a slicker brush and metal comb for routine maintenance.
Smooth Coats (Beagles, Boxers, Pugs): While these short coats rarely mat, they can develop minor tangles behind the ears or on the tail. A rubber curry brush and occasional combing are usually sufficient.
Quality dog grooming tools make the job easier and safer for both you and your dog.
High-Quality Slicker Brush ($15-$30): Cheap slicker brushes have pins that bend or break, rendering them useless. Invest in a professional-grade brush with flexible pins and a comfortable handle. Chris Christensen and Artero make excellent options.
Stainless Steel Comb ($10-$20): Look for a comb with teeth that are tightly set without gaps. Cheaper combs often have rough edges that can scratch skin. Greyhound combs are a professional favorite.
Professional Dematting Tool ($15-$40): These come in 6-blade or 12-blade versions. Start with fewer blades for better control. Brands like Safari and Andis are reliable.
Quality Detangling Spray ($12-$25): Cheap spray bottles might save money upfront but often leave residue or don’t penetrate the coat effectively. Look for products with natural ingredients like coconut oil or aloe. The Stuff and Ice on Ice are professional groomer favorites.
Grooming Table with Arm ($80-$200): If you have a medium to large dog or multiple dogs, a grooming table saves your back and makes controlling your dog much easier. The arm and loop keep them in position without you needing to hold them.
Cordless Clippers ($100-$300): For regular maintenance trimming or those times when you need to remove mats, quality clippers are worth every penny. Andis, Wahl, and Oster make professional-grade clippers that last for years.
Even well-meaning owners make these errors that actually make matting worse:
Bathing Before Brushing: Water is mat’s best friend. It shrinks and tightens tangles into rock-hard masses. Always, always brush before bathing.
Using Human Hair Products: Your shampoo and conditioner aren’t formulated for a dog’s skin pH. They can dry out the coat and increase tangling. Stick to products designed specifically for dogs.
Brushing Too Aggressively: Ripping through mats with force causes pain, breaks hair, and damages skin. Slow and steady wins this race.
Inconsistent Grooming: Brushing once every few weeks isn’t enough for most dogs. By the time you pick up the brush again, new mats have already formed. Stick to a regular schedule.
Neglecting Problem Areas: Most owners brush the easy-to-reach back and sides while neglecting armpits, ears, and rear end—exactly where mats form most often.
Cutting Mats with Regular Scissors: Sharp-pointed scissors pose a serious risk of cutting your dog’s skin, which is thinner than you think and often hidden by the mat. Always use blunt-tip scissors and place a comb between the mat and skin.
Assuming Short Hair Means No Grooming: Even short-coated dogs need regular brushing to distribute natural oils and remove dead hair. Neglecting them can still lead to tangles, especially in longer-haired areas like the tail and ears.
Grooming should never be a battle. Pay attention to your dog’s body language and stress signals:
Signs of Tolerance: Relaxed body posture, accepting treats, staying in position voluntarily, soft eyes
Signs of Mild Stress: Yawning, lip licking, ears slightly back, trying to move away
Signs of Significant Stress: Growling, showing teeth, rigid body, whale eye (showing whites of eyes), attempting to bite
If your dog shows significant stress, stop the session. You may need to work on desensitization training, breaking the grooming into multiple short sessions, or seeking professional help.
Desensitization Tips: Start by simply touching the areas you need to groom without any tools. Pair touching with treats. Gradually introduce the sight and sound of grooming tools while feeding treats. Eventually, touch your dog briefly with the tools while rewarding heavily. Build up duration slowly over multiple sessions.
Severe matting can cause serious medical problems:
Skin Infections: Mats trap moisture and bacteria against the skin, creating perfect conditions for bacterial or fungal infections. Signs include redness, odor, discharge, or your dog constantly licking the area.
Hot Spots: These painful, inflamed skin lesions develop when mats trap moisture and irritate the skin. They can appear suddenly and spread quickly if not treated.
Hematomas: Mats around the ears can cause dogs to shake their heads violently in discomfort, leading to blood vessel rupture and ear hematomas that require veterinary treatment.
Restricted Blood Flow: Extremely tight mats can actually constrict blood flow to affected areas, especially on legs and tails. This is a veterinary emergency.
Parasites: Fleas and ticks burrow into matted fur where they’re protected from detection and removal. Mats around the rear end can also trap feces, attracting flies and maggots.
If you notice any of these issues while working on mats, stop grooming and consult your veterinarian. The underlying skin needs treatment before you continue dematting.
Older dogs present unique challenges when dealing with matted fur:
Arthritis: Seniors with joint pain can’t stand for long grooming sessions. Work in short 10-15 minute increments with rest breaks. Allow them to lie down if possible.
Thin Skin: Senior dog skin becomes more delicate and tears easily. Use extra caution with dematting tools and scissors. Work more slowly and gently than you would with a younger dog.
Patience: Older dogs may have reduced hearing or vision, making them startled by grooming tools. Approach them slowly and let them see or smell tools before using them.
Medical Conditions: Many seniors take medications that affect coat quality or have conditions that cause increased matting. Work with your vet to address underlying causes.
Cognitive Changes: Dogs with canine cognitive dysfunction may not tolerate grooming as well as they once did. Keep sessions very short and maintain a calm, predictable routine.
What your dog eats directly affects coat quality and susceptibility to matting:
Protein: Hair is made of protein. Insufficient protein leads to dry, brittle hair that tangles easily. Most adult dogs need at least 18-25% protein in their diet.
Omega Fatty Acids: Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids keep skin healthy and coat shiny. Good sources include fish oil, flaxseed, and quality animal fats.
Biotin and B Vitamins: These support healthy skin and hair growth. Deficiencies can cause dry, flaky skin and poor coat quality.
Hydration: Dehydrated dogs develop dry skin and brittle coats. Make sure fresh water is always available.
If your dog has persistent coat problems despite regular grooming, discuss their diet with your veterinarian. Sometimes a food upgrade or supplements make a significant difference.
Consistency is the key to preventing mats. Here’s a framework based on coat type:
Daily (Poodles, Doodles, Afghan Hounds, Yorkshire Terriers, Maltese):
3-4 Times Weekly (Golden Retrievers, Cocker Spaniels, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels):
2-3 Times Weekly (German Shepherds, Border Collies, Australian Shepherds):
Weekly (Beagles, Boxers, Bulldogs, short-coated breeds):
Mark grooming sessions on your calendar or set phone reminders. Life gets busy, and it’s easy to let grooming slide, but prevention takes far less time than dealing with established mats.
Dealing with matted fur doesn’t have to be an overwhelming challenge. With patience, the right tools, and proper technique, you can keep your dog’s coat healthy and tangle-free. Remember that prevention through regular brushing is always easier than trying to remove dog mats that have already formed.
Start slowly if your dog isn’t accustomed to grooming, building positive associations with treats and praise. Work systematically from the outside of each mat inward, never rushing or forcing the process. Know when a situation requires professional help—there’s no shame in calling a groomer for severely matted dog fur.
Your dog depends on you for proper pet coat care. Regular grooming isn’t just about appearance—it’s about comfort, health, and preventing painful conditions. The time you invest in maintaining your dog’s coat pays dividends in their quality of life and the bond you share during those grooming sessions.
Make grooming a regular part of your routine, not something you do only when mats appear. Your dog’s coat (and your dog) will thank you for the consistent care and attention.
While olive oil can help loosen minor tangles, it’s not the best solution for mats. Oil makes the coat greasy and attracts dirt, creating more problems. A proper detangling spray formulated for dogs works much better because it conditions without leaving heavy residue. If you’re in a pinch, a tiny amount of coconut oil can help, but you’ll need to bathe your dog afterward to remove it. For established mats, mechanical removal with proper dog grooming tools is more effective than any product.
Severely matted hair requires patience and the right approach. Start by applying detangling spray generously to the affected area. Use your fingers to gently pull apart the outer edges of the mat while holding the base near the skin to prevent pulling. Work in small sections, taking breaks to prevent exhausting your dog. A mat splitter can divide large mats into smaller, more manageable pieces. Progress to a slicker brush once you’ve loosened the outer portions, always working from the ends toward the skin. However, be realistic—mats that are tight against the skin and completely solid often can’t be safely brushed out and cutting becomes the kindest option to avoid causing pain.
Always remove mats before bathing your dog. This is one of the most important rules in grooming. Water causes mats to shrink and tighten, transforming loose tangles into rock-hard masses that are nearly impossible to brush out. If you bathe a matted dog, you’ll create a much bigger problem than you started with. The proper sequence is: brush out all mats and tangles, then bathe, then brush again while the coat is drying to prevent new tangles from forming. This approach makes untangling dog hair significantly easier and less stressful for both you and your dog.
Brushing frequency depends entirely on your dog’s coat type. Dogs with long, silky, or curly coats like Poodles, Doodles, and Yorkies need daily brushing to stay mat-free. Breeds with medium-length coats such as Golden Retrievers or Cocker Spaniels should be brushed 3-4 times per week. Dogs with double coats need more frequent brushing during seasonal shedding periods. Even short-haired breeds benefit from weekly brushing to remove dead hair and distribute natural oils. High-friction areas like behind the ears, armpits, and rear end need extra attention regardless of coat type. Establishing a consistent schedule prevents small tangles from becoming serious mats.
Yes, matted fur causes genuine pain and can lead to serious health problems. Mats pull constantly on the skin, creating tension that causes irritation, redness, and discomfort. As mats tighten, they restrict blood flow to affected areas, which is especially dangerous on legs and tails. The pulling sensation makes movement uncomfortable, affecting how your dog walks and plays. Mats also trap moisture against the skin, creating perfect conditions for bacterial infections, hot spots, and fungal growth. Parasites like fleas and ticks hide in matted dog fur where they’re protected from detection. Severe cases can cause open sores where the mat has rubbed the skin raw. This is why addressing mats promptly is so important for your dog’s wellbeing.
Both tools help with matted fur but work slightly differently. A dematting tool typically has 6-12 curved, sharp-edged blades that slice through mats when you use a gentle sawing motion. The multiple blades make it efficient for moderately sized mats. A mat splitter usually has 1-3 thicker blades designed to divide large, dense mats into smaller sections. Think of the dematting tool as more of a finesse instrument for working through tangles, while the mat splitter is for breaking down severe mats into manageable pieces. Both cut vertically through the mat rather than removing hair from the root, which is less painful than trying to brush out tight tangles. Many groomers keep both in their toolkit for different situations.
Several signs indicate you need professional help. If the mat is tight against the skin with no space to safely insert a comb or your fingers underneath, it’s too risky to remove yourself. Mats covering large areas of the body (more than a few inches in diameter) are difficult to tackle without professional equipment. When you notice red, irritated skin, open sores, or signs of infection under a mat, veterinary attention is needed before grooming. If your dog shows signs of pain, aggression, or extreme stress during your attempts, stop and seek a professional groomer who has experience handling anxious dogs. Mats in sensitive areas like the genital region or deep inside the ears also warrant professional help to avoid injury.
Cutting out mats doesn’t permanently damage the coat—the hair will grow back. However, you’ll have uneven patches until the hair regrows, which can take several months depending on the area and your dog’s growth rate. This is why prevention through regular brushing is so important. If your dog is severely matted over large areas, professional groomers may recommend shaving the entire coat down to create an even appearance while the hair grows back. The temporary cosmetic issue is worth it compared to the pain and health risks of leaving mats in place. Focus on establishing a proper grooming routine so the coat grows back healthy and doesn’t mat again. The experience of having mats cut out can also stress some dogs, making future grooming sessions more challenging.
Trimming your dog’s nails can feel intimidating, especially if you’re new to pet nail care. Many pet parents worry about hurting their furry friend or causing bleeding. The good news? With the right tools, technique, and patience, you can master this essential dog grooming basics skill and keep your pup’s
Watching your furry friend struggle with extra pounds can be heartbreaking. If you’ve noticed your dog panting more during walks, having trouble jumping on the couch, or simply looking rounder than usual, you’re not alone. Pet obesity affects more than 50% of dogs in the United States, making it one
Bringing home your first dog is an exciting milestone, but it can also feel overwhelming. You’re about to welcome a new family member who depends on you for everything—from meals and exercise to training and healthcare. Whether you’ve adopted a playful puppy or a mature rescue dog, this comprehensive first
Good news — your favorite Dootie Bags are finally back in stock!
Our Original Heavy Dootie Bags and Standard Dootie Bags (green) have officially returned and are now available for purchase.
We’ve restored the original texture you love, now proudly labeled “The Original Bag!” in red on the box for easy recognition.
Still prefer the softer biodegradable version? Don’t worry — it’s available too, so you can pick the texture and feel you like best.
Grab yours now at GoGoStik.com, Amazon, and Walmart.com!
